Aquaseal Basement Foundation Concrete Crack Repair Specialist Ontario

Aquaseal Basement Foundation Concrete Crack Repair Specialist Ontario
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Thursday, October 29, 2009

~How To Fix- Repair a Basement Concrete Crack~ 1-800-NO-LEAKS



~How To Fix- Repair a Basement Concrete Crack~ 1-800-NO-LEAKS

Location: Ontario, Canada
Date Posted: October 29
How To Fix- Repair a Basement Concrete Crack How To Fix- Repair a Basement Concrete Crack How To Fix- Repair a Basement Concrete Crack

Why Concrete Cracks

Concrete shrinks as a natural process of it curing. This shrinkage causes the concrete to develop stresses and to relieve it, the basement wall cracks. This is a normal condition in a concrete foundation. Shrinkage cracks are typically less than 1/16th" in width and will eventually run the entire length of the concrete wall, from top to bottom. Common areas for a shrinkage concrete crack to develop are under a basement window, in the middle of a long wall or where the foundation "steps down."
Once the concrete cracks it is possible for water to leak into a basement through the crack. There are several ways to repair a basement crack leak. The most effective is to perform an injection of polyurethane foam or epoxy resin into the basement crack.

Epoxy Resin Concrete Crack Repair by Injection

Epoxy concrete crack injection does not only stop water but also provides structural strength. Like the familiar epoxy glue, it fills the crack and glues the concrete. Its strength and bond with concrete greatly exceeds the strength of the concrete itself. And the high bond and tensile strengths of epoxy prevents further elongation and yawning of structural cracks. Epoxy low pressure crack injection method insures that the full depth and length of the crack is filled. It fills cracks in walls up to 24 inches thick

Polyurethane Resin Concrete Crack Repair by Injection

Polyurethane resin are injected into the basement crack in a liquid form. This allows a gentle and slow filling process of the basement crack that will completely fill the crack. After a few minutes the polyurethane will begin to react with the water in the crack to begin foaming. Water is actually the catalyst that converts the liquid polyurethane into foam. This foaming action increases the volume of the polyurethane up to 30x its liquid form.
As the polyurethane foam expands it fills the basement crack from bottom to top and front to back. The finished foam will be a closed cell flexible structure that will not allow water to leak into the basement crack. In fact, if there are any voids in the soil outside of the basement- such as under a rock or if the foundation is backfilled with gravel-the polyurethane foam will expand and extend out into the void.
The polyurethane foam forms a strong bond to the concrete. This bond will be able to withstand the hydrostatic pressure that may develop from high ground water levels. High ground water levels are typically caused by heavy rains.

Why Polyurethane or Epoxy is Better Than a Patch

No other concrete crack repair process can do what polyurethane or epoxy injection can do. Surface patching of the crack is just that. Only the inside of the basement wall is covered by a repair. Chiseling out the concrete crack and filling it with hydraulic cement only fills a portion of the crack. Water can still enter the basement crack and will eventually force out the patch or hydraulic cement and the patch will re-crack again and again allowing water to enter.Patching a crack only makes it worse for most professionals to repair it later.It will also effect the cost of the repair later by a professional.

Fast and Easy Repair

Basement concrete crack injection is a quick repair process that stops water leaks. The technician does not have to drill into the concrete to do it with epoxy,with polyurethane he has to drill holes. For this reason the basement crack repair is a clean process. The technician will attach ports to the surface of the basement crack that allow the liquid polyurethane to enter the basement wall and stop the leak.
Once the basement wall crack repair is completed, water will not be able to leak into the basement. Now the homeowner's possessions will be safe. As will any insulation on the basement walls, the drywall or the framing used to finish the basement.

This article is written by Pierre Van Belleghem who's with Aquaseal Basement Waterproofing Contractors .Pierre has been in the construction industry & waterproofing industry since 1974. Aquaseal is a family owned professional waterproofing contractor serving Ontario. To learn more about .
visit Aquaseal on the web.
http://www.aquasealwaterproofing.com/basement_foundation_concrete_crack_repair_specialist.php



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Tuesday, October 27, 2009

Hiring a Home Inspector

Hiring a Home Inspector
It’s often said that one of the most expensive and important purchases you will ever make will be your home. However, unlike the guarantee a buyer receives with most purchases, there’s no money-back guarantee or return policy if you’re not satisfied with your recently purchased home. Once you buy a home, you’re on your own to maintain it, repair it, anticipate problems and pay the bills. This is why it’s best to know as much as you can about potential problems before you make the commitment to buy.

What Home and Property Inspectors do
One of the best ways to understand about a home’s condition, habitability and safety is to hire a professional home inspector1. A properly trained home inspector will review your house as a system, looking at how one component of the house might affect the operability or lifespan of another. Home inspectors will go through the property and perform a comprehensive visual inspection to assess the condition of the house and all of its systems. They will determine the components that are not performing properly as well as items that are beyond their useful life or are unsafe. They will also identify areas where repairs may be needed or where there may have been problems in the past. Inspections are intended to provide the client with a better understanding of property conditions, as observed at the time of the inspection.

A pre-purchase inspection for a 165 to 205 m2 (1,800 to 2,200 sq. ft.) home typically takes about three hours and costs around $500. Following the inspection, the buyer is presented with a written report, consolidating the details of the inspection. The home inspector should be willing to answer any questions a buyer might have and to clarify the limitations of the inspection to avoid misunderstandings. CMHC recommends that potential buyers accompany the inspector as the inspection takes place. It can be a valuable learning experience.

Scope of the Inspection
Home inspections are intended to provide information regarding the condition of systems and components of the home at the time of the inspection. It will help you make an informed purchase decision.

The home inspector will provide a visual inspection by looking at the home’s various systems, including interior and exterior components. The inspector will check exterior components including roofing, flashing, chimneys, gutters, downspouts, wall surfaces, windows, doors, the foundation and the grading around it.

Note that if the inspection takes place in the winter, the roof and the foundation may not be fully visible for inspection if they are covered with snow and ice. For safety and insurance reasons, the home inspector would not typically climb up on snow or ice covered roofs. However, the home inspector will inspect the roof from the ground or other vantage point. This also applies to the chimney and downspouts.

If problems or symptoms beyond the scope of the inspection are found, the home inspector may recommend further evaluation.

Interior systems the home inspector will check include electrical, heating, air conditioning, ventilation, plumbing, insulation, flooring, ceiling and walls, windows and doors. Note that a home inspector is not qualified to inspect a wood-burning appliance such as a fireplace or wood stove unless they are WETT (Wood Energy Technology Training) certified. Many home inspectors are, but do not carry out a WETT inspection as part of the standard home inspection unless it is requested. This is an extra request and will add at least one hour to the inspection time. To be properly inspected, a chimney must first be cleaned.

As with the outside of the home, the inspection of the interior systems is visual, meaning that the inspector will be unable to see behind walls or under the floor.

Unless otherwise arranged, typically a home inspection does not include appraisals, exact quotes for repairs, or determine compliance with regulatory requirements. A home inspection is not intended to provide warranties or guarantees.

Choosing a Home Inspector
Home inspection is a discipline that requires special training, knowledge and communication skills.

However, there is presently no mandatory certification and no legislated requirement for home inspectors to take any courses or to have passed any tests. Anyone can say that they are a home inspector. That is why it is important to choose an inspector wisely.

Reputable home and property inspectors generally belong to a provincial or regional industry association. These associations have set standards, which, in some cases, are recognized by provincial governments. Some associations have developed membership categories based on the individual members’ qualifications. In most provinces, a member cannot advertise or promote his or her membership in the association until they have reached the minimum standards of a practicing member. Standards may vary from province to province.

The Canadian Association of Home and Property Inspectors (CAHPI) with the support of CMHC, Human Resources and Social Development Canada and the Construction Sector Council, developed a voluntary national accreditation and certification program to help ensure the competency and professionalism of home inspectors. Home inspectors who have met the requirements of this national certification program are designated National Certificate Holders.

The following questions/answers have been prepared to help you to choose a home inspector:

1.How do I Find a Home Inspector?

Check association websites, the Yellow Pages™ or housing or home trade magazines. Ask friends or family members. Your real estate agent may also make a suggestion. However, be aware, under provincial regulations for some provinces, and the code of ethics for real estate agents, agents are not permitted to recommend or provide the name of only one home inspector. They are, however, permitted to provide a list of home inspectors from which you can choose.

The only alliance home inspectors should have is to their professional association and their only allegiance should be to the homebuyer.

2.How Long Has The Home Inspector Been in Business?

The competence of a house inspector can be expected to improve with the number of years in business and the number of home inspections conducted. Experienced home inspectors will be better prepared to assess the condition of the house.

3.What Are The Home Inspector’s Qualifications?

Look for people who belong to a provincial association and who have taken inspection courses such as: defect recognition, building sciences, and home construction. Professional home inspectors are typically bound by a strict code of ethics and must adhere to specific standards of practice. Knowledgable home inspectors will have a general understanding of all the various systems and components in a home. Many have practical experience or a background in engineering, construction and related building trades.

Keep in mind that at this time, anyone can become a member of a home inspection association. Many associations have different levels of membership. Being an association member does not necessarily mean that a member has successfully completed a certification process. Check to make sure that the inspector has successfully completed the association’s certification process.

4.How do I Know That a Home Inspector Has The Necessary Qualifications?

You should ask to see proof of their membership in a provincial association. In most provinces, a member cannot advertise their membership in the association until they have reached the minimum standards of a practicing member. The association in your province will be pleased to clarify their membership categories and any particular inspector’s membership level. Inspectors meeting the requirements of CAHPI’s National Certification Program have a National Certificate Holder designation.

5.Can the Home Inspector Provide Three References?

Any qualified home inspector should gladly provide this information upon request. Call the people named as references and ask whether they were satisfied with the service they received from the inspector. You can also check with the Better Business Bureau.

6.Can the Home Inspector also be Hired to do Repairs or Improvements?

Many home inspectors associations have code of ethics that prevent home inspectors from offering services to repair or improve homes they have inspected. While they may provide you with a personal opinion based on past experience, it is recommended that you obtain three independent quotes from qualified contractors.

7.Does the Home Inspector Conduct Inspections at Night?

It is not desirable to conduct an inspection at night, since a number of the vital components of the exterior of the house cannot be seen properly.

8.Where Can I Get More Information About the Home Inspector and/or His/Her Firm?

The home inspector may point you to the firm’s website, to their industry association, provide company details, list inspector qualifications or describe a range of services offered.

9.What Should a Home Inspector Provide Following the Inspection and When Will I Receive it?

The home inspector generally provides a written report reviewing every major home system and component within 24 hours of the inspection.

10.Should I Hire a Home Inspector to Inspect my New Home?

A pre-delivery inspection (PDI) may be a requirement in closing the purchase of a new home. During the pre-delivery inspection, the homebuyer and builder inspect the home to ensure both parties are satisfied that the conditions of the sales agreement have been met, any outstanding work, and warrantable defects or deficiencies, are identified. If you do not feel that you have the knowledge to judge whether or not your new home meets the conditions set out in the agreement you could retain a home inspector to help you. Note that some builders have policies concerning who may be present during the pre-delivery inspection so it’s best to inquire with the builder during the negotiation of the sales agreement whether or not this is possible.

You should also be aware that pre-delivery inspections are fairly specialized and not all home inspectors have experience in this area. If you have permission from the builder to bring a home inspector to your PDI, enquire if the inspector has the knowledge/experience to conduct this type of inspection.
A Final Note :
CMHC does not recommend or endorse any individual home inspector or association. CMHC supports national uniform standards of competency for home inspectors.

For more information on the inspection industry’s National Certification Program, please refer to the National Certification Authority’s website http://www.nca-anc.com/

1 Property inspectors inspect commercial properties. Many inspectors perform both home and property inspections.

Article Written by CMHC

Article Provided by Aquaseal Basement Waterproofing Contractors Ontario

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Hiring a Contractor

Hiring a Contractor
At some time, most homeowners will hire someone for repairs or renovations. Even a homeowner experienced in home repairs may have to hire a contractor or renovator because of the size or level of difficulty of the job. This fact sheet will help you choose a contractor and work effectively and fairly with the contractor to achieve the results you desire.

Who Do You Hire?
Once you have decided to renovate and know, or at least have a good idea of, what you want, choosing a contractor or renovator is a crucial decision. It’s not something you should rush into.

The contractor you hire should have the technical, business and interpersonal skills, the tools and the experience needed to do the job you want done. Hire a contractor who has experience with projects similar to yours. This contractor will know what materials and techniques are needed for your work; and even better, about problems with similar work — and how to solve them.


For large renovation projects, you can hire a renovator to take charge of the whole job since many renovation contracting companies are set up to handle both design and renovation work. You may hire an architect, architectural technologist (depending on the size of the project) or a designer to prepare your project’s plans for permit application and then invite contractors or renovators to submit a quotation based on these plans. These professionals may also provide their services to oversee your project, which may include obtaining all necessary permits, hiring a contractor(s) and the supervision of the work.

Finding and Choosing a Contractor
Start by looking for several suitable contractors. A good source of referrals may be a family member, friend, or neighbour who has had similar work completed. They can tell you about the dependability of the contractors they worked with, the quality of the work and their overall experience with that company. Other sources are your local homebuilder and renovator associations; local building supply stores; in some municipalities, your local building department; and through contractors' websites on the Internet.

Discuss your project with a few potential contractors to get their advice and suggestions on how they would do the work. At the first meeting, some may give you a rough estimate of costs, depending on the project’s scope and complexity. The first meeting is usually more to get to know the contractor and the contractor’s work. Unless you have been able to check out the contractor ahead of time you should not sign anything or pay anything at this stage.

You want to find out as much as you can, so ask a lot of questions, such as:

•How long have you been in business?
•What work are you, or your subcontractors, licensed to do, e.g., electrical, plumbing?
•What kind of work do you specialize in?
•Have you done a similar job before?
•Will you use your own crew for the work or will you subcontract all or part of the job?
•How would you handle a specific problem related to this project (e.g., installing kitchen cabinets on your sloping floor)?
•How will you deal with the health and energy efficiency aspects of the job?
•How and when do you clean up, particularly fine dust?
•What work schedule will you follow?
•What kind of warranty do you offer and what does it cover?
•Do you carry workers’ compensation and liability insurance?
•Will you provide a written contract?
•Will you take out all required permits (e.g., building, plumbing, electrical)?
You won’t offend reputable firms with questions. If a contractor doesn’t seem to know much about the technical details of the job or doesn’t want to talk about them, you may have the wrong contractor.

If the contractor plans to do the whole job alone, make sure he or she has all the necessary skills and qualifications.

Most importantly, be sure you can get along with the contractor. If you cannot communicate effectively with the contractor, things can get very tense in a lengthy project. You want a contractor who will explain what’s going on as the project takes shape, who will discuss problems reasonably and who will work with you to make the result as good as it can be.

You also want someone who’s willing and able to help you refine your plans where possible, resulting in a more desirable and cost-effective project. A contractor who is knowledgeable about the type of work you’re doing should be able to suggest ways to get what you want and meet your budget.

The best proof of quality is satisfied customers. The contractors you decide to meet with should have references from at least three previous clients who have had similar work done. Don’t accept the references at face value. Phone them and ask about their experience with the contractor and their tradespeople and ask them if they were satisfied with the quality of the work. Were there any problems? Did the contractor keep them informed throughout the project? Did the contractor’s crew keep a clean work site? Was the work done on schedule? Were there changes to the scope of the work and if so how were they handled? Would they hire the contractor again or recommend the company to friends or family?

If the previous clients are willing, visit them to see the finished job. Their willingness itself is usually a sign that they were satisfied. Check with your local Better Business Bureau. It records complaints about contractors in your community.

Getting Estimates or Proposals
How many estimates do you need? There are no hard and fast rules here. Some consumers prefer to get a number of bids before making a decision. Others find that after the interview process, there is one contractor they strongly prefer and only ask that contractor to submit a formal written estimate or proposal. What really matters is that you end up feeling that you have adequate information to make the right choice of contractor.


As a general rule, with the proper drawings and specifications, three estimates will usually provide sufficient information for you to make a decision. To get estimates, especially for substantial projects, you’ll need good-quality drawings and detailed specifications. You can either use an architect or designer, or you can hire a renovator who offers design services as well as renovation services. In this latter case, the drawings can become part of the overall contract if you hire the renovator for the entire job. But you don’t have to use the same renovator for the work. Should you choose to use the set of drawings provided by this renovator to obtain other estimates, you may be required to pay for them.

Even with a small project, a set of written specifications is needed. Be as specific as you can: what type of flooring, what kind and brand of doors and windows, what kind of finishes you want.

For a large project, it can take two to three weeks for a contractor to prepare an estimate. Ask the contractor to submit it in person so you can discuss the estimate with them. Compare the estimate carefully and make sure that everything you ask for is in the estimate. It should include everything that the contractor will have to do to complete the job. Assume that anything not listed is not included in the price. As well, make sure the contractor provides you with a construction schedule.

In some cases, a contractor will give you a “fixed price” quote. A fixed price includes all the materials, labour, equipment and fees, plus contingencies, overhead and profit. In some cases allowances are established for items which you have yet to select, e.g., flooring and light fixtures. The allowance, which is only an estimate, is later adjusted once you have made your final selection.

If it is difficult to estimate just how much the job will cost — for example, for an old house that might need extra work — you can use the “cost-plus method” for contracts.

In a cost-plus contract, you pay the contractor the actual cost for labour, materials, equipment and a percentage for overhead and profit. Cost-plus contracts leave costs open-ended, so it’s best to set a limit so costs don’t get out of hand.

Remember, renovation may uncover hidden problems, so make sure you include a contingency budget to cover unforeseen costs.

Another option is a design-build contract, in which a renovator designs and carries out the whole project. You can use either a fixed price or cost-plus contract, again with a set cost limit.

Don’t automatically choose the contractor who gives the lowest estimate. It may be unrealistically low. The contractor may not have understood the project, may be underestimating what it will take to complete the work, or simply trying to get a price advantage over the competitors. In any case, you could risk unexpected and additional costs, or you may end up with a job that leaves you unsatisfied.

Look for a fair price. Factor in any differences in what the contractors are offering and the skills they bring to the job. Then add the intangibles: reputation, willingness to make suggestions and offer advice, the likelihood of standing behind the work. Choose the contractor you feel will give you the best overall value for your money.

Get it in Writing
Do not be tempted by a contractor who doesn’t have an address, doesn’t want a written contract and offers a discount if you pay cash. This type of underground economy transaction involves many risks and pitfalls that offset any savings to the homeowner.

For example, contractors who insist on cash may be unlicensed and uninsured; and without a written contract your cash advances are unprotected. They could neglect to get the required permits or inspections. Product warranties may not be valid if a recognized contractor does not install the items.

As well, an underground contractor may do poor work and create health and safety problems. If one of the contractor’s crew is improperly trained, is injured on the job or damages your property or a neighbour’s property, your homeowner’s insurance policy might not cover you and you could be liable.

A cash deal may leave you with no legal recourse if something goes wrong or the work isn’t satisfactory, or if the contractor walks off the job without finishing it. In fact, it makes it difficult for you to prove the contractor was ever there. And after you have paid the contractor, you may find that materials haven’t been paid for or workers haven’t been paid — and you are responsible for the bills. For your own protection and peace of mind, it’s best to deal in a legal and responsible way — always get it in writing.

The Contract
A detailed written contract between you and the contractor you hire is essential to any renovation or home repair project, no matter its size. Even the smallest job should be put in writing. For detailed information as to what should be included in a contract, making payments and to see an example of a contract refer to the About Your House titled "Sample Renovation Contract".

Completion Certificate
When the job is finished, the contractor may ask you to sign a certificate of completion. Don’t sign it until you have thoroughly inspected the work. If the contractor has to return later to finish a few minor details, you should note this, and if appropriate, hold back a portion of the payment to cover the outstanding work.

Professional contractors offer a warranty on their work and will come back if something goes wrong.

Holdbacks
There are three types of holdbacks:

1.Builders Lien Holdback — This type of holdback is intended to provide homeowners with protection should subcontractors or suppliers place liens against the property to secure payment for work performed, and who may not have been paid by the general contractor, for their services. This allows a period of time, after the project is substantially completed, for them to make any required claim. At times, the general contractor will arrange for these funds to be held in trust by a lawyer. Where there are no subcontractors or suppliers involved with the project, this requirement will not apply.
Note: The Builders Lien Holdback funds cannot be used to correct deficiencies. Each province has its own regulations regarding this type of holdback.Verify with your provincial authority for such rules or regulations in your area.

2.Deficiency Holdback — When a project is substantially complete, there will often be a number of items that are incomplete and/or which may need to be corrected. It is a standard procedure to hold back a reasonable amount of money (e.g., cost per item or a percentage of the total cost of the project) to cover the cost for these items. Once these items have been satisfactorily completed, complete payment is forwarded to your contractor.

3.Seasonal or Delivery Holdback — Depending on the time of the year (season) that your project is carried out, there may be items that cannot be completed (i.e., exterior painting, landscaping, etc.) and/or there may be products/material that are not readily available. In these situations, it is standard procedure to hold back payment(s) equaling the cost of the items remaining to be completed.

Working with your Contractor
Once the job is under way, you’ll see a lot of your contractor and the crew. The job will go much better if there is mutual respect and you co-operate with them. Talk with the contractor, so you know what’s going on and what might be needed from you — an empty driveway so the delivery van can bring in the new bathtub, for example. But don’t call every five minutes. Make a list of your questions and save them for a time which you are both available.

In spite of a clear, detailed contract, disputes can, and occasionally do, arise for any number of reasons. Good communication can go a long way in settling any disagreements between you and your contractor. As a first step, you should sit down together to discuss the problem calmly and seek a solution that you both can live with comfortably. This is usually the fastest, least expensive and ultimately, most satisfactory approach.

Try to be reasonable. Don’t overreact if something is wrong. Allow sufficient time for a response. As well, things the contractor can’t control, like bad weather and backordered components, can delay the job, so leave a little leeway in your schedule for them.

If these steps have not helped, you can follow the dispute resolution method, or mediator as identified in the contract. Architects and construction arbitrators are often used to settle any disputes.

As a last resort, and in cases where things are going so badly that the project seems unworkable, you have the option of cancelling the contract. This is why it’s wise to put a termination clause in the contract. You’ll likely have to pay to get out of the deal, so it’s best to agree on the cancellation penalty before you start.

If you think that some of the work is not up to local building standards, report it in writing to the appropriate inspection department, with a copy to your contractor. If the work doesn’t meet building code requirements, the contractor should have to correct it at his or her expense.

Also, you can report poor workmanship and unsatisfactory business practices to the government department that granted the contractor a business licence, where applicable.

Consumer Protection Laws
There are several laws protecting consumers. Provincial and territorial consumer affairs or consumer relations departments usually administer consumer protection laws. They can help you resolve problems between you and your contractor. Sometimes a phone call is enough, but a letter outlining the problem (giving names, dates, addresses and details) is often required before any action can be taken.

The consumer protection authority may send a building inspector to examine the work. The inspector’s report may be enough to settle the dispute. If not, the consumer protection office may provide mediation. The power of a government consumer protection office is a strong incentive for settlement. If it isn’t and legal action is required, the consumer protection office will give you further advice and assistance.

The Better Business Bureau, a monitoring agency maintained by the business community, will also handle consumer complaints and mediate disputes and try to get a fair settlement.

If legal action is necessary, you may be able to take the contractor to small claims court without having to hire a lawyer or the complications and delays of a formal court case. Although small claims court is relaxed and informal, its decisions are binding. The size of the claim you can make depends on the province or territory where you live. Your local courthouse can give you this information and direct you to the office that handles small claims cases.

About Insurance
It’s important to make sure the contractor has workers’ compensation and third-party liability insurance for all the people on the job and damage they may cause ($2 million is standard, this may not be the case in rural areas). Your local homebuilders’ association is a good source of information for what is standard in your area. Don’t just take the contractor’s word — ask to see a certificate and check to make sure it’s current. Don’t accept or assume any liability for the contractor or trades people.

As for your liability, your homeowner’s insurance policy may cover you during a project done by a renovator but you should always advise your insurance provider of any renovation work ahead of time. However, if you’re acting as your own general contractor and employing trades people, your policy won’t automatically cover you. You’ll have to ask your insurance company for temporary coverage, which will likely involve a small extra premium. Again, make sure any tradespeople you hire have their own insurance.

Checklist — Hiring a Contractor
What to do first


Write a description of the work you want done, with as much detail as possible.


Check with your municipal building department to ensure that the work can be done and if zoning approval or any special permits are required.

Find a contractor


Ask friends and neighbours for recommendations.


Get names from your family members, friends, local homebuilder and renovator associations, building supply outlets and, in some municipalities, your local building department.

Ask contractors for their business licence number and check with the local licensing office and the firm’s insurance company for public liability and property damage insurance and workers’ compensation.

Ask for references from past customers.

Check with the Better Business Bureau for complaints against the contractor.
Establishing the cost: getting estimates or proposals


Number of estimates or proposals: __1 __2 __3 Do you have:


A complete description of the work to be done by the selected contractor?

Samples and literature showing different products that could be used?

Depending on the size of the project, plans or sketches and specifications of the work to be completed?
The contract should contain


Correct and complete address of the property where the work will be done.


Your name and address.


Contractor’s name, address, telephone and GST numbers.


Detailed description of the work, plans (or sketches) and a detailed specification of the materials (type, quality, model) to be used.


The right to retain a lien holdback as specified in provincial law.


A clause stating that work will conform to the requirements of all applicable codes, such as building, safety and fire codes.


Start and completion dates.


The price and payment schedule (keep in mind the lien and seasonal holdbacks).


Agreement on who (homeowner or contractor) is responsible for all necessary permits, licenses, inspections and certificates.

Contractor’s responsibilities include:


Public liability insurance.


Property damage insurance.


Identifying any necessary permits and ensuring all legal requirements are satisfied.


Workers’ compensation for all employees of the contractor or subcontractors.


All work carried out under the contractor, including work done by subcontractors.


Removal of construction debris when the job is finished.


Warranties on all contractor supplied work and materials (in addition to manufacturer’s warranties) for a period of at least one year.

Homeowner’s responsibilities include:


Ensuring that all contracted work conforms to zoning bylaws.


Ensuring adequate working space and freedom of movement for workers, and use of utilities.


Ensuring prompt payment according to the requirements of the law and the holdback and payment schedule.

Article Written by CMHC

Article Provided by Aquaseal Basement Waterproofing Contractors Ontario

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When You Must Leave Your House Due to a Prolonged Winter Power Outage

When You Must Leave Your House Due to a Prolonged Winter Power Outage
In the winter, the power supply to your home can be interrupted from a few hours to several days by freezing rain, sleet, snow storms and/or high winds which damage power lines and equipment. This is the same power supply that you need to heat your home, be it electric baseboards or furnaces, or gas or oil furnaces (which use electric controls and distribution fans). If you encounter an extended period of time without power, the result can be a loss of heating, which in turn results in a cold home, severe living conditions, and possible damage to walls, floors and plumbing.

Be Prepared

During a winter power outage, you should be prepared to follow some procedures to help protect your home from damage. You should have a power outage preparedness plan that includes listing the location of your electrical breakers, gas and water valves. Everyone in your household should know where this document is kept. In advance, you should also consider the following:

•Keep spare batteries, along with a readily accessible flashlight and portable am/fm radio.
•Keep handy extra fuses (if you have an electrical box that uses fuses).
•If your home is prone to flooding, consider purchasing and installing a DC sump pump and back-up battery, or a properly sized inverter and battery for the pump.
•Prepare a 3-day, emergency kit which includes: 4 litres of water per person/day, canned food, a manual can opener, utensils, a sleeping bag or blanket per person, medication, flashlight, a crank or battery operated radio, spare batteries, a change of clothes, diapers, a first aid kit, insurance information and if applicable, pet food and litter. Pack all of these items in a bag — also refer to emergency preparedness websites or the emergency section of your phone directory.
•Routinely check your main water supply valve to ensure proper operation.
Leaving Your Home
If you must leave your home for more than 24 hours because of a power failure, here are some simple things to do to prevent house damage.


Electricity and Power

•Shut off power to house at breaker box.
•Shut power off at the breaker to the water heater, furnace, water pump (if you have one) and sump pump.
•Make sure that appliances, electronic equipment and tools are turned off at the switch and unplugged.
•Close gas valves, if you have natural gas or propane.
•Unplug major appliances so that they do not start up cold when power is restored.
•Turn the thermostat down.
•Use a flashlight versus candles or oil lamps.
Water

•Turn off water supply at water service entrance (the valve is generally located at the front of the house, near the basement floor).

•Open all taps, starting at the top of the house and let them drain. Flush the toilet to drain the tank. If you get your water from a well, drain the pump line and expansion tanks. Unhook washing machine hoses and drain. Leave all taps open while you are gone.

•If you are not on a septic system and have to leave for a long period and freezing is certain, pour a non-toxic antifreeze (cottage or recreational vehicle antifreeze, or windshield washer fluid) in all traps (toilets, sinks, washing machines, showers). Caution: Never add an ammonia-based product to items that have the non-toxic antifreeze in the trap — such as for cleaning the toilet bowl before you leave. The results are hazardous.

•If the temperature inside your house will remain below freezing for a long time, turn off power source first and then drain the hot water tank by attaching a hose to the tank drain valve and running it to the basement floor drain. For electric hot water tanks, turn off the power at the breaker. For gas hot water tanks, turn the gas valve to “OFF”.

•If the weather is not too cold, or if you are checking the house regularly, the hot water tank may survive without draining. In this case, turn off the power to the hot water tank at the breaker or fuse box, or turn the gas valve to “Pilot”.

•If your house is equipped with a sump pump to protect it from ground water, it will not work without electric power. Consider a back-up power source.

•If your home is on a septic system, do not use excessive water as the aeration pump or lift pump will not be operational.

•Wrap any exposed water pipes with insulation.

•Move valuables off the basement floor in case there is flooding.
More Tips

•For prolonged departures, pile snow, straw or other insulation material around the basement walls to prevent soil freezing next to the foundation. Close the door to the basement to keep in the heat.

•Empty refrigerators and freezers. If possible, do not keep surplus food. Wedge freezer and refrigerator doors open to prevent mold growth. Ensure that the devices used to hold the doors open cannot trap a child or pet inside.

•Notify municipal authorities — police, fire, hydro — that you are leaving the house. Unless there is a life or property-threatening emergency (illness or powerline down), do not call 9-1-1. Use the numbers specified in your phone directory.

•If you have a pet, ask your vet where you can take a pet during an evacuation.

•Take proof of identification with you.

•Ensure your home is secure before you leave, and bring your house key (doors and windows closed and locked).

•If you rely on your garage door opener for access to your garage, be sure you know how to operate it manually to access your car.
Returning Home
Power and Energy

•Use a flashlight — don’t light matches or turn on electrical switches if you suspect damage or smell gas.

•Do not start major appliances until the house has returned to near normal temperature.

•Ensure that stoves, ovens, washing machines, electronics and portable space heaters are turned off at the switch.

•Turn on power to the house breaker box — with all appliances still unplugged.

•Turn power on to individual appliances (including refrigerators and freezers) when they are warmed up.

•If you turned off the gas, it should only be turned back on by a professional from the gas company.

•If there is flooding, do not operate appliances, electrical outlets, switches or fuse-breaker panels until they have been checked and serviced by a qualified technician.
Water

•Do not turn on the house water supply until indoor air returns to near normal temperature — in the 20oC range.

•Close all open taps, close hot water tank drain, reconnect washing machine hoses and the drain.

•Turn on water at water service entrance.

•Ensure that hot water taps are running and that the hot water tank is full before turning it on. Electric hot water tanks can be turned on at a breaker. If you have a gas hot water tank, call a service person to restore the gas to the tank.

•Turn on the tap which is on the highest level in the house until water is flowing, to bleed air out of the system. Ensure that drains are not clogged with ice or cracked by freezing. Run other taps until water is flowing. Check for leakage from pipes where possible. If you find leaks, turn off the water supply to the leaky pipe or turn off water at the service entrance until leaks are repaired.

•If you are on a septic system, do not add antifreeze, salt or additives to the septic tank and do not run the water continuously to unfreeze the system. Many contractors have pressure steamers to defrost frozen piping or can install heat tape or a tank heater.

•Check sump and sump pipes for freezing before starting the sump pump.

•If there is flooding in the basement, drain the water in stages, about a third of the volume of water per day. Draining the water too quickly can structurally damage your home. CMHC’s booklet — “Cleaning Up Your House After a Flood” — contains useful information. You can obtain it from your local CMHC office or by calling 1 800 668-2642.

More Tips

•Do not use an open flame to thaw frozen pipes.

•Confine or secure your pets until the house is deemed safe.

Article Written by CMHC

Article Provided by Aquaseal Basement Waterproofing Contractors Ontario

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Wood Heat Safety in an Emergency

Wood Heat Safety in an Emergency
This information can help you use wood safely as an emergency heating fuel.

As most home heating systems need electricity to work, loss of power creates a heating emergency. Many householders use their wood burning stoves and fireplaces to heat their homes during a power outage.

A properly installed and operated wood stove or heating fireplace can be a safe and secure way to heat a home. But using wet wood, a makeshift, temporary wood stove installation or continuous use of a decorative fireplaces increases the risk of a house fire. If possible, get professional help from a qualified chimney installer, a chimney sweep or ask your local fire department for advice.

Getting the Best Out of Wet Wood
You may be forced to use wet wood. It is hard to light, slow to burn and provides much less heat than dry wood.

Here’s how to make the best of an emergency situation.

•Because small pieces heat up and catch fire faster than large pieces, split the wood into pieces about 75 mm (3 in.) in diameter.
•Brush snow and ice off the wood and bring it into the house — making sure you don’t store it too close to the stove.
•Burn small, bright fires, using no more than five small sticks at a time.
•If you have some dry wood, mix it with the wet wood.
•Never load up the stove or fireplace and let it smoulder.
Safety tips
•If you have a battery-operated smoke detector, make sure that it works. If you don’t have one, try to install one. A batteryoperated carbon monoxide alarm is also useful.
•Check materials around the stove or fireplace and all exposed parts of the chimney, including the attic, for signs of overheating.Wood starts to darken as it overheats.
•Make sure all flue pipe joints are fastened with no fewer than three sheet metal screws.
•Burn small, bright fires to make the most effective use of the fuel, while avoiding the overheating from large, intense fires.
•Don’t try to heat the whole house; concentrate all your activities in the room where the heater is and let other rooms go cold; drain your water pipes and pumps.
•Shovel ashes into a metal container, take it outside immediately and empty it in the yard away from trees and shrubs; never put a bucket full of ashes in the basement or on a wooden porch floor, and never put ashes in a wood or cardboard box.
•If the stove continues to smoke, open a nearby window.
•If you can’t keep the unit from smoking, stop using it because you and your family could suffer carbon monoxide poisoning.
•If you are using a wood burning furnace, remove the blower compartment door and open the basement door; burn small, controlled fires.
Temporary Wood Stove Installations can be Hazardous
The most dangerous wood stove installations are makeshift installations by untrained people. Installing a wood stove may seem simple. It isn’t. A safe installation calls for a lot of specialized knowledge.

A wood stove must have a proper brick or metal chimney — never try to vent a wood stove out a window using single-wall flue pipes. Make sure the inside of the chimney flue is clear and smooth.

The flue pipes that connect the stove to the chimney are often the weak link. Every joint in the flue pipe assembly must be fastened with three sheet metal screws to prevent it from falling down as it heats. Flue pipes must be at least 450 mm (18 in.) away from combustible materials like wood furniture and drywall. The stove should be at least 125 cm (48 in.) away from combustible materials.

Most Important, Get Professional Help
•In Quebec, hire a chimney sweep licensed or accredited by the Association des professionnels du chauffage (APC).
•In other provinces, hire an installer or chimney sweep with a Wood Energy Technical Training (WETT) certificate.
•Or have your local fire department check your installation.
Look in the Yellow Pages™ for wood stove sellers and chimney sweeps nearest you, or call the numbers at the end of this message to get more information. If you cannot get professional help, don’t take any chances. It is better to leave your home than risk your family’s safety.

Be Careful with Decorative Fireplaces
Fireplaces in most houses are designed for watching a fire, not for serious heating. Continuously using a decorative fireplace can be dangerous, particularly if large fires are burned, as the wood in adjacent walls may reach unsafe temperatures. Since decorative fireplaces do not capture much of the fire’s heat, it is usually better to leave the glass doors open to gain the direct radiant heat from the fire. The tempered glass in many of these fireplaces block this direct radiation.

To help avoid smoke spillage, burn one sheet of newspaper first to preheat the chimney. Build a small, brightly flaming fire to gain the most direct radiation, without overheating the fireplace structure. To reduce the amount of warm air drawn out of the house into the fireplace, close the throat damper until the unit begins to spill smoke, then open it until the smoke stops. Never leave the unit unattended.

Put your Well Being First
Use your stove or fireplace safely. Don’t risk your family’s safety trying to save your water pipes. Move to a warm shelter until you can provide adequate heat.

For further information, please contact:

The Hearth Patio, and Barbecue Association of Canada
705-788-2221 or www.hpbacanada.org

L’association des professionnels du chauffage
514-270-4944 or www.poelesfoyers.ca

Wood Energy Technology Inc.
1-888-358-9388 or www.wettinc.ca

Article Written by CMHC

Article Provided by Aquaseal Basement Waterproofing Contractors Ontario

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Combustion Gases in Your Home — Things You Should Know About Combustion Spillage

Combustion Gases in Your Home — Things You Should Know About Combustion Spillage
Are Combustion Gases Spilling Into Your Home?
Does your home have any of these combustion appliances?

•Gas-fired furnace, boiler, or water heater?
•Oil-fired furnace, boiler or water heater?
•Wood stove or fireplace?
•Other fuel-burning device?
If so, then combustion gases will be produced as the fuel burns. Normally, these combustion products — which can include both visible smoke and various invisible gases — should be vented to the outdoors through a chimney or vent pipe. Unfortunately, they may instead escape into your home, where they could raise a variety of health and other concerns.

Combustion spillage is the term used to describe the unwanted flow of combustion gases into your home. The quantities involved are usually small. However, the number of houses with potentially significant spillage is increasing, and on occasion the results can be extremely serious. This fact sheet provides some important information about combustion spillage. It alerts you to some of the symptoms and outlines practical steps you can take to reduce the risks. In short, this fact sheet is designed to help you keep combustion gases OUT of your home.

Why the Concern?
Because toxic compounds can be present in combustion gases, sharing your home with these gases can lead to problems ranging from nuisance headaches to serious illness, carbon monoxide poisoning and even death. The most likely health effects are chronic, low-grade, sometimes difficult-to-define ailments, and health deterioration due to long-term exposure to the combustion gases. These effects
can occur even if concentrations are low.

Toxic and other harmful products in the combustion gases include:

•Carbon monoxide
•Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs)
•Aldehydes
•Hydrocarbons
•Sulphur dioxide
•Nitrogen oxides
•Particulates
Carbon dioxide and water vapour, which are relatively harmless, are often present in larger quantities.

The exact composition and characteristics of combustion gases, and the severity of their effect on your house and its occupants, depend on several factors. These include the type of fuel being burned and the condition of your system.

Understanding Venting and Spillage
When Things Go Right

A typical oil or gas forced-air heating system is shown schematically in Figure 1. When operating, the system generates two separate air flows:

Combustion air

Combustion is a process in which air and fuel combine to produce heat and various combustion products. Depending on the type of furnace, the air required for combustion may be drawn into the furnace from the surrounding room, or it may be ducted directly from outside the house. Furnaces should be designed to completely remove the resulting combustion gases from your home.

Circulating air

The heat generated in the furnace, if it is to have any value, must be transferred to the living areas of the home. In a forced-air system, this is accomplished by circulating heated household air. Cooler air is returned to the furnace, heated in a heat exchanger, and returned to the house via the heating ducts.

In a properly operating forced-air furnace, the combustion air and the circulating air both flow through the furnace as it operates, but do not mix at all (as shown in Figure 1).

Hydronic heating systems — systems that rely on water and radiators to distribute heat — don’t have a circulating air stream. They do, however, require the same supply of combustion air and removal of combustion gases as the forced-air systems. Similarly, gas or oil water heaters, fireplaces, and wood stoves all require combustion air, and all require the combustion gases to be vented to the outdoors.



Figure 1: Basic Forced-Air Heating System Airflows

When Things Go Wrong

Unfortunately, combustion systems don’t always work as they should, and combustion spillage is the result.

Sometimes this spillage is obvious — for instance, if you have a wood stove or a fireplace, you may occasionally see smoke escaping into the room. In other cases, spillage may not be so evident, in part because the furnace and water heater are usually located away from the main living areas of the home. In addition, many combustion gases are hard to detect — they are invisible and have little or no odour.

Three major factors, working alone or together, can create conditions conducive to combustion spillage in your home.

In addition to these factors, unusual winds can also sometimes be at fault.

Factor 1: Chimney Problems

Your chimney’s job is to remove combustion gases from your home. However, your chimney won’t work properly if it is poorly designed, poorly installed or poorly maintained.

There are many causes of inadequate chimney performance or failure. Here are some examples:

•A chimney may be improperly sized — too small for the job or too large to maintain an adequate draft.
•Obstructions such as birds nests, broken bricks and ice can block a chimney’s air flow.
•Corrosion may become a problem as a result of condensation or poor construction or installation.
•An uninsulated chimney on an exterior wall is a particular concern because it can become very cold when combustion gases are not present. This can lead to condensation of moisture from the air. When the chimney first fills with moist combustion gases, the condensation may increase, at least until the chimney warms up. Condensation can result in damage to the materials in the chimney and ice formation. This in turn leads to problems such as crumbling bricks, cracks and leaks, blockages, and poor draft.

Factor 2: Equipment Problems

Your home’s combustion appliances are made up of several components. Like chimneys, they should be well designed, properly installed, and regularly maintained. Otherwise, mechanical problems may prevent combustion gases from venting properly.

As an example, your furnace may be causing a spillage problem if the heat exchanger is corroded or cracked. This would allow crossover of circulating air into the combustion chamber or of combustion gases into the circulating air stream. Either way, combustion gases will end up being distributed through your home, as shown in Figure 2.



Figure 2: Combustion Spillage Due to a Cracked Heat Exchanger

Factor 3. Pressure Problems

In the winter, we close up our homes. At the same time, we run exhaust fans and numerous other devices that pump air out of the house. (In fact, many appliances, particularly fireplaces, exhaust a considerable amount of air even when not operating.) As a result, the air pressure indoors falls below the air pressure outdoors, and the house becomes depressurized. Pressure is balanced as fresh outdoor air is drawn into the house through available openings, such as cracks and gaps around windows, doors, and small openings in the building structure.

If your house is sufficiently depressurized, air may be sucked in through the chimney. When this happens, air flows down the chimney, rather than up — a condition known as backdrafting (see figure 3). If you have ever opened the damper before lighting your fireplace and felt the big wash of cold air come into the living room, you have encountered backdrafting.

Backdrafting is most common during the “off ” cycle of the combustion appliance. If the appliance starts up while backdrafting is occurring, the downward airflow in the chimney may be difficult to reverse. Combustion gas spillage could persist for as long after start up as it takes for the backdrafting to be reversed. In houses where the “on” cycle is short and the chimney is not insulated, this type of start up spillage may occur frequently, since the chimney has little opportunity to heat up and establish a good draft. Because the combustion products during start-up are particularly dirty, even minor spillage of this type should be considered undesirable.

In some circumstances, backdrafting can also take place while the combustion appliance is operating — for instance, in a fireplace with a smouldering fire. (See "What About Fireplaces?".)



Figure 3: Backdrafting Due To Depressurization

Can We Control Combustion Gas Problems?

By reading this fact sheet, you have already made a start toward controlling your combustion gas problems, because increased awareness is the foundation for action. You can build on this foundation by taking measures to prevent, detect, and correct combustion spillage problems.

If you follow the recommendations below, you are unlikely to experience hazardous levels of combustion gases in your home. Some of the actions have costs — but that is a small price to pay for improving the quality of the air in your home and for ensuring your health and safety.

Preventing Combustion Spillage
As the saying goes, prevention is the best cure. Some of the actions described below will be easier to implement if you are building, renovating or replacing existing equipment. Even if you are not, there is still a great deal you can do.

Maintain Your Combustion Appliances

Start an annual maintenance routine for all your combustion appliances. Get professional assistance to do this. The service person should check for heat exchanger leakage, evidence of start up spillage, and condensation in chimneys.

Maintenance should include a tune-up — a properly tuned combustion appliance rarely produces carbon monoxide, the most serious threat. If necessary, have your furnace adjusted so that it operates on cycles that are six minutes or longer (to minimize start up spillage). Remember that a thorough maintenance check may cost a little more than a simple cleaning, but it is money well spent.

Inspect and Maintain Your Chimney

A blocked chimney will not vent your furnace’s combustion gases. Have a professional check that your chimney is not cracked and is clear of obstacles such as pieces of broken brick, or ice, or dead birds. This check should be done routinely as part of an annual or bi-annual service call.

Upgrade Your Chimney

Talk to chimney professionals to find out how your chimney’s performance can be improved. If you are building or renovating, try to have the new chimney located on an inside wall.

Have a specialist assess the air supply for your combustion appliances. Remember that even a properly designed combustion air duct will not, on its own, solve spillage or backdrafting problems; chimney problems and depressurization should also be resolved.

When replacing existing equipment or buying new equipment, invest in appliances that are less prone to spillage. Forced draft appliances, which rely on a fan to establish positive venting of combustion gases, are often resistant to spillage. Sealed combustion appliances isolate the combustion air and combustion gases from the living areas. This further restricts the possibility of spillage. Ask the salesperson for advice.

Avoid Conditions that Lead to Backdrafting

With a little care, conditions that might lead to backdrafting can be minimized by reducing indoor and outdoor pressure differences.

For instance:

•Be wary of operating several powerful exhaust devices simultaneously.
•If you install a new range-top barbecue with a powerful exhaust fan, get expert advice on how to balance this on the air supply side.
•Avoid combinations of appliances that are likely to create depressurized conditions — for instance, a natural draft furnace with a range-top barbecue exhaust fan.
•If your furnace or water heater is enclosed in a small separate room, allow air to move freely between the furnace room and the rest of the house. Louvred doors may be the answer.
•If you have a forced-air heating system, be sure you are not drawing return air from the immediate vicinity of your combustion appliances. Make sure the blower door on your furnace is in place.
What About Fireplaces?
Fireplaces can be a significant combustion spillage threat and should be treated with great respect. Most people with a fireplace have experienced small puffs of smoke when the fire is lit. They may not know that the smouldering embers of a dying fire can release high concentrations of carbon monoxide (CO), a colourless, odourless and extremely toxic gas. This happens because when a fire is burning down, little heat is being released; the chimney draft may be very weak and the CO easily spills into the home, sometimes after the family has gone to bed.

Fireplace safety measures include chimney maintenance, warning devices and avoiding conditions that are conducive to backdrafting. Extra air from outdoors should always be provided while the fireplace is burning strongly or smouldering. Keeping fireplace doors tightly shut as the fire burns down can also help reduce the potential for spillage. Consider adding tight-fitting doors if there are none or, better still, install an energy-efficient fireplace insert.



Figure 4: Chimney Flow Test

Chimney Flow Test
1.Hold a smoke indicator (such as an incense stick) near the draft hood of a gas furnace or water heater, or near the barometric damper of an oil furnace when your furnace is operating. Watch the direction of the smoke.
2.Now switch on all exhaust fans and other exhaust equipment. Check again for smoke movement at the draft hood or damper.
3.If the smoke moves into the house, you may have a spillage problem.You should immediately call an experienced professional heating contractor for a thorough inspection.
Be Careful with Unvented Appliances
If you have an unvented gas range in your home, be sure to use your range hood, and provide extra ventilation whenever the appliance is operating.

Unvented portable space heaters should not be used except in heat emergencies, and then only with windows open to allow combustion gases to escape.

Detecting Combustion Spillage Problems
Even with a good prevention program, you should be on the look-out for combustion gas spillage.

Watch for warning signs such as:

•Repeated headaches, skin and throat irritations, and other low grade illnesses
•Combustion odours anywhere in the house
•Hot and muggy air around the furnace
•Soot stains around any combustion appliance, or unusual rumbling sounds when it is operating
Do the Chimney Flow Test, a quick and simple procedure that will give you an indication of how well your chimney is working (see Figure 4). (This test is not suitable for sealed combustion appliances.)

Install warning devices. Standard smoke alarms are suitable for detecting combustion spillage from oil and wood furnaces and boilers.

Carbon monoxide (CO) alarms should be used with gas or oil furnaces and water heaters, and with fireplaces. CO alarms are sold in hardware and electronic stores. Buy one certified to a UL2034 or CAN/CGA6.19 standards. Electric powered units should also bear the CSA logo. These devices can be installed close to the combustion appliance being monitored. Having a CO detector close to bedrooms is also a good idea.

Correcting Combustion Spillage Problems
If you have a combustion spillage problem, it is important to deal with it. Often, solutions to existing problems and prevention of future problems require similar strategies. Once you have determined that you have a problem and have identified a cause, consider the relevant actions described under Preventing Combustion Spillage. Ensure that all necessary repairs or improvements are done as quickly as possible, and by experienced professionals.

If you are unsure about your options, consult the Yellow Pages™ to find professionals who specialize in, for example, ducting, building inspection, indoor air quality, chimneys and heating equipment. Your fuel supply company should also be able to provide assistance.

Article Written By CMHC

Article Provided By Aquaseal Basement Waterproofing Contractors Ontario

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The Importance of Bathroom and Kitchen Fans

The Importance of Bathroom and Kitchen Fans
Bathroom and kitchen fans are an important part of your home's ventilation system. They remove odours from your house, which improves indoor air quality. They also remove moisture, which decreases the level of humidity in your house. High humidity can damage building materials and can cause mold growth. Mold may affect your family's health.

Common Fan and Exhaust Systems
The two most common types of fans are impeller fans and blower fans.

Impeller fans move air with blades similar to airplane propellers.

Blower fans look like hamster wheels — they are often called squirrel cages — and generally do a better job of moving air than impeller fans.

Most exhaust systems consist of an exhaust fan, ducting and an exterior hood. Some houses have a central exhaust system, in which one fan draws moisture and odours from several rooms of the house using a network of ducts.

Kitchen exhaust systems usually have the fan and fan motor in the exhaust hood. Other systems use an in-line fan, which is in the exhaust duct, or a fan outside the house. In-line and outdoor exhaust fans are usually quieter than systems with the fan in the room.

A heat recovery ventilator (HRV) also exhausts moisture and odours. An HRV is a self-contained ventilation system that provides balanced air intake and exhaust. Like a central exhaust fan, it can be connected to several rooms by ducting.

How Good Is The Fan I Have Now?
CMHC's research shows that many houses have exhaust fans that:

•are too noisy
•move very little air
•are not energy efficient
•may cause backdrafting of combustion appliances
•use high-wattage lighting
Are There Better Fans?
Yes. There's a new generation of effective, quiet, energy-efficient exhaust fans and controls.

How Do I Choose the Best System?
First, choose the quietest, most energy-efficient fan in the size range required. Most fan labels have Home Ventilation Institute (HVI) ratings so you can compare noise and energy efficiency. Look for a fan with replaceable parts and permanent lubrication. A fan suitable for continuous use is preferable. Be prepared to pay more for a quality fan.

Second, select low-resistance (smooth) exhaust ducting. Seal the joints and insulate sections that run through unheated spaces.

Third, place the exhaust hood where it will not cause moisture damage on exterior surfaces.

Fourth, if you have heating appliances with chimneys, make sure that fans won't cause the appliances to backdraft.

Fifth, install the proper controls.

Bathroom Fans: What Should I Look For?
Fan exhaust capacity is rated in litres per second (L/s) or cubic feet per minute (cfm). A normal bathroom needs a good-quality fan that draws 25 L/s (50 cfm). A poor-quality fan won't exhaust enough air and will be too noisy for regular use. The best fans have sound ratings of 0.5 sones or less and consume about 20 watts. Older units typically run up to 4 sones and 80 watts.

Large bathrooms, or those with bigger fixtures, such as spas, need larger fans. Place a bathroom fan as close as possible to the source of the moisture or odour.

Some bathroom fans have lights or heating lamps. If you choose a fan with integrated lights, look for efficiency. Any fan installed in an insulated ceiling — for instance, if the attic is above the bathroom ceiling — must not leak air and must be rated for use under insulation.

Make sure that exhaust fans, lights and heaters in bath or shower enclosures are rated and approved for wet conditions. Newer units approved for wet conditions may include ground fault protection.

Noise
Noise determines whether people use a fan. Many people won't use a noisy fan. Select the quietest fan in the size you need. Look for fans labeled 'low noise' or 'quiet,' and check for the HVI rating. If it is not rated, there is a good chance that it will be noisy.

Fan Power Requirements and Airflows
There is more to energy efficiency than selecting an energy-efficient fan. Ducting can affect fan performance. Uninsulated, undersized, or droopy flex ducting, ineffective or dirty backdraft dampers and exhaust louvres can cut rated airflow by more than 50 per cent.

To find out if your exhaust fan is drawing air, hold a piece of toilet tissue up to the grill. The exhaust air should hold the tissue tightly to the grill. You could also check the outlet to make sure the air is leaving your house. CMHC has developed a simple test to measure flow, and published it as an "About Your House" titled "Garbage Bag Airflow Test". You can also obtain a printed copy from CMHC by calling our toll-free number 1-800-668-2642.

Controls
Bathroom fans connected to light switches start running when the light is turned on. Often, users turn the light off before all the moisture is exhausted after a bath or shower. An electronic timer, which is usually quieter than a mechanical timer, offers a wide range of settings. Make sure the time instructions are easy-to- understand and the timer is easy to use. You can use motion or humidity sensors, or a combination of both, to control the fan. Controls which allow you to specify operating times or maximum humidity levels are preferable to those where the operation is pre-set by the manufacturer. Use a delayed fan shut-off to keep the fan running for 15 minutes after you leave the room.

Cleaning
Fans create static electricity which attracts dirt like a magnet to the fan and its housing. The dirt can encourage mold growth and restrict air movement. Clean fans, housings, backdraft dampers and exterior flaps seasonally. A typical bathroom fan can be cleaned by pulling down the grill, and unplugging and removing the fan module. Fans in ducts and exterior fans may be difficult to clean.

Kitchen Range Hoods
A kitchen range hood must move more air than a bathroom fan. about 50 to 140 L/s (100 to 300 cfm). As a result, they are noisier, with the lowest rating about 4.5 sones, although they can be relatively quiet on low speed.

The most useful units have a low noise rating, an energy-efficient fan, fluorescent lights, sound insulation, anti-vibration mounts and duct connections. For heavy duty use, select non-corrosive materials such as aluminum or stainless steel. High quality hoods may have heat sensors and a safety shut-off.

Kitchen exhaust systems should discharge outdoors. Recirculating range hoods rely on filters to capture some odours and grease. The filters are generally made of carbon which must be replaced frequently to be effective. Grease will coat carbon, making it ineffective. With recirculating fans, cooking moisture and odours will usually remain in the house.

Positioning
Range hoods are most effective when they extend out over the stove surface and are close to the stove top. Island units are less effective than wall units.

Cleaning
Range hoods usually have washable, aluminum-mesh grease filters. Better quality filters have a smaller diameter mesh over a larger surface area and can be cleaned in the dishwasher.

Fire
There is always the possibility of a grease fire with a kitchen range hood exhaust. Smooth metal ducting, preferably galvanized steel, is safer in a fire than lighter assemblies.

Installation
Install fans and exhaust systems so they make the least possible noise, vibrate as little as possible and leak as little air as possible.

Anti-vibration pads or foam tape can isolate the fan housing from wood joists and drywall. You can wrap fan housings and some duct sections in rubber or vinyl noise barrier mats.

Ducts
Install exhaust systems according to the building code and manufacturer's recommendations. Straight, short duct runs, with few turns, will result in the highest fan flow.

For bathroom fans, use duct with a diameter of at least 100 mm (4 in). For long runs, use larger, 150 mm diameter (6 in.) to improve air flow. It is usually best to avoid fans with 75 mm (3 in.) exhaust ports and ducts. Follow manufacturer's instructions for kitchen exhaust duct sizes.

Seal all duct joints and connections with aluminum duct tape or duct mastic (available at contractors. supply shops) to prevent air, moisture and noise leakage. Standard cloth duct tapes tend to dry out and fall off.

Seal and then insulate all ductwork running through unheated areas to avoid moisture problems.The best practice is to slant horizontal runs of duct down toward the exterior outlet to drain any condensation outside.

Exhaust air should not be released into the attic, into a wall or ceiling cavity, crawl space, basement or in the roof soffit. These locations can promote condensation damage and mold growth.

Weather Hoods, Grills and Backdraft Dampers
Even when fans are off, stack effects and wind loads may cause outside air to enter or inside air to exhaust through fan ducting. Fans are equipped with backdraft flaps, usually in the fan box exhaust port. Check the flaps from time to time to make sure they are clean and working. The exterior exhaust flap or louvres should be clean and in good repair to maintain unobstructed airflow and reduce air infiltration. Most exhaust ducts are fitted with a single flap exhaust hood or triple louvre aluminum or plastic exhaust grill. Use weather hoods that lie flat on the wall in driveways and other places where hood-type units could be damaged.

Plastic hoods break down over time and need to be replaced. Clean exhaust hoods of lint and nesting materials seasonally to ensure that the flap or louvres are not blocked or stuck open.

Some Dangers
Chimney Connections
Some older bathrooms have static exhausts which look like upside down funnels on the ceiling. If these exhausts are hooked into the furnace chimney, disconnect them from the chimney, seal the hole in the chimney with hydraulic (expanding) cement, and install a new powered exhaust. If these static exhausts go directly outside, they can still be used, but a good fan will be more energy efficient and less drafty.

High Capacity Systems
High capacity, industrial or oversized exhaust fans, and range-top barbecue fans can cause chimney backdrafting. Backdrafting occurs when air is drawn down the chimneys, bringing dangerous combustion exhaust gases into the house. Avoid backdrafting by selecting sealed combustion heating appliances. If you have appliances with chimneys in your house, and you wish to install high capacity exhaust fans, you will need a matching supply air fan to balance house pressures.

Many ventilation contractors or salespeople are unaware of the effects of large exhaust fans on other house appliances. Make sure that your system is properly installed with supply air. At the very least, make sure that you have smoke alarms and carbon monoxide detectors to warn you if you have severe chimney backdrafting.

For More Information
Fact sheets and product ratings are available from the Home Ventilation Institute at:

Home Ventilating Institute
(December 2007)
http://www.hvi.org
Telephone: 847-526-2010

Article Written By CMHC

Article Provided By Aquaseal Basement Waterproofing Contractors Ontario

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Should You Test the Air in Your Home for Mold?

Should You Test the Air in Your Home for Mold?
Introduction
Molds are microscopic fungi, the very tiny members of the same family that includes mushrooms and yeasts. They grow and reproduce rapidly. Molds can be useful — penicillin comes from one type of mold. Other molds help humans make some foods and beverages.

Mold can also be harmful. It can damage and even ruin materials, such as paper, cardboard and fabrics.

Mold can affect your health and your family’s health.

Health experts say that molds can cause allergic reactions and illnesses, depending on the type of mold, the amount and degree of exposure and the health condition of a home’s occupants.

Pregnant women, infants, the elderly and people with a respiratory disease or a weakened immune system, are at risk when exposed to mold.

If you suspect there is mold in your home that is causing health problems, you can do a preliminary examination of your home yourself. The Clean Air Guide and Clean-up Procedures for Mold in Houses have checklists that you can use. You may be able to find the problem yourself. If you are unsure, you may want to hire a professional to help you. You do not want to renovate until you have verified the problem and the causes.

The first thing that comes to people's minds when they suspect mold is to have the air of the house tested. This involves collecting an air sample and sending the sample to a laboratory for analysis.

Testing for Mold
Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation (CMHC), the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and the American Industrial Hygiene Association do not recommend testing the air for molds in single-family dwellings and similar buildings as a first step. The recommended first step is having a trained investigator check your house for mold.

CMHC has a program that trains qualified individuals to investigate houses for indoor air quality problems, including mold. An experienced investigator can determine if your house has a mold problem. An investigation starts with your home's background — is there a history of flooding? Has the roof or plumbing leaked? The investigator then checks for visible signs of mold, the presence of moldy odours and other indicators. The inspector determines the extent of the mold. The larger the affected areas, the higher the concentration of mold in the indoor air. The extent of mold is important in assessing risks to health. It determines how the remediation should be done, who should be doing it and what kind of isolation strategies and protective equipment are needed to protect the workers, the occupants and their furnishings.

A thorough investigation based on building-science principles is more helpful than testing the air. An air sample test does not pinpoint sources of moisture, tell you why you have a mold problem or suggest ways to fix it. A trained investigator determines causes and suggests ways to remediate and repair problems. An investigator who follows the CMHC Residential Indoor Air Quality Investigation Procedure provides you with a written report that includes recommendations.

In the majority of cases, the homeowner has everything needed to proceed to remediate the problem. You don't need to know what kind of mold is growing before making a plan to remove it. The solution is the same whether the mold is a toxic mold or a common type of mold.

There may be some situations where mold testing may be necessary: for instance, you are involved in litigation and your lawyer wants to have the molds identified, or someone in the house is sick and the family physician has asked for mold tests, or you believe the information is essential in making some important decisions.

When the mold is visible or you know where it is hidden, the suggested procedure is to take actual samples of the mold. You see the mold, you sample it and have it identified. It is a straightforward process. Material is scraped from the moldy surface or lifted with a piece of transparent tape or cut from moldy drywall or ceiling. The samples are placed in plastic bags, sealed and labelled carefully and sent to the laboratory for analysis. You also want to document, with photographs, the locations the samples were taken from.

In a few cases, mold is strongly suspected but is not seen and you are not prepared to start taking walls down. The moldy odour may also be occasional and you are unsure whether mold is a problem. Testing the air may be justified.

A trained investigator may advise mold testing after inspecting your house because the investigator couldn’t find the mold because it is hidden (for example, in a wall, in the attic or in the crawl space). Or, the investigator may have found mold but isn't sure if it is affecting your family’s health.

Testing the Air
If your investigator advises you to test air samples for mold, factors to consider include:

•Ensure that the investigator has the expertise and the proper equipment to perform the testing. For more information, visit the American Industrial Hygiene Association’s website. If your investigator isn’t able to sample the air in your house, ask the investigator to recommend someone who can do the sampling. This individual, not the laboratory, interprets the results.
•Ask the person collecting the samples about the laboratory that will analyse the samples. Be sure that it is recommended by your municipal or regional medical officer of health, your provincial or territorial public health department or is used by the federal government.

•At least two samples at different times (early morning and evening) should be taken for each area of concern in the house.

•Outdoor samples should be taken for comparison. If a significant proportion of the mold or molds found indoors are not found outdoors, this usually means there is an indoor mold source that needs further investigation.

•Spore counts or “colony forming units” alone have little or no value. A laboratory test identifies the types of molds, either by genus (family) or by species. Identification by genus is less expensive but doesn’t tell you as much as species identification. For instance, you may be told you have mold of the genus Penicillium, but not which species of Penicillium. This can matter because some species grow on food and others on building materials.

Air sampling alone provides no information about health risk. Decisions cannot be made based on the laboratory results. If there are strong indications that mold is growing in the house, intrusive checking is needed to find the mold.

Removing mold must be done carefully under controlled conditions. For information about removing mold, go the Health Canada website and enter “mold” in the search box.

The most important point about removing mold is to fix the underlying moisture problem.

Apartments — A Special Case
Large apartment buildings can have complicated mechanical ventilation systems that make them more like office buildings than homes. Mold investigations in such buildings require investigators with different training and skills than investigators who specialize in smaller buildings.

Tenants living in apartments or rental housing who suspect or believe that they have mold problems in their units can ask for assistance from their municipal or regional health departments.

Article Written By CMHC

Article Provided By Aquaseal Basement Waterproofing Contractors Ontario

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Fighting Mold — The Homeowners' Guide

Fighting Mold — The Homeowners' Guide
Understanding mold
•Mold can be harmful or helpful — depending on where it grows.
•Mold needs moisture to grow.
•Mold does not grow on dry materials.
•Mold growing inside a home can affect the occupants.
•Occupants can learn to recognize mold.
Molds are microscopic fungi, a group of organisms which also includes mushrooms and yeasts. Fungi are highly adapted to grow and reproduce rapidly, producing spores and mycelia in the process.

You encounter mold every day. Foods spoil because of mold. Leaves decay and pieces of wood lying on the ground rot due to mold. That fuzzy black growth on wet window sills is mold. Paper or fabrics stored in a damp place get a musty smell that is due to the action of molds.

Molds can be useful to people. The drug penicillin is obtained from a specific type of mold. Some foods and beverages are made by the actions of molds. The good kinds of molds are selected and grown in a controlled fashion.

Molds are undesirable when they grow where we don’t want them, such as in homes. Over 270 species of mold have been identified as living in Canadian homes. Molds that grow inside may be different from the ones found outdoors.

What makes molds grow?
Molds will grow if we provide them with moisture and nutrients. If we keep things dry, molds do not grow.

High moisture levels can be the result of water coming in from the outside, through the floor, walls or roof; or from plumbing leaks; or moisture produced by the people living in the home, through daily activities like bathing, washing clothes or cooking. Water enters the building when there is a weakness or failure in the structure. Moisture accumulates within the home when there is not enough ventilation to expel that moisture.

Different kinds of molds grow on different materials. Certain kinds of molds like an extremely wet environment. Other kinds of molds may be growing even if no water can be seen. Dampness inside the material can be enough to allow them to grow.

Why are molds a concern?
Damage to materials is one concern. Materials get stained or discoloured, and over time they are ruined. Moldy paper and cardboard disintegrate over time. Fabrics are damaged. Continued mold growth can be indicative of moisture conditions favourable for growth of fungi that cause wood rot and structural damage.

When molds are growing inside the home, there may be health concerns. Molds release chemicals and spores.

Health experts indicate that, depending on the type of mold present in a home, the amount and degree of exposure, and the health condition of the occupant, the health effects of mold can range from being insignificant to causing allergic reactions and illness.

Pregnant women, infants, the elderly and those with health problems, such as respiratory disease or a weakened immune system, are more at risk when exposed to mold. Consult your family physician if you believe there is someone who may be at risk.

Is there a mold problem?
Molds are always found in the air outside and in all buildings. They come into the home in many ways — through open windows or doors, on clothing, pets, food or furniture. The problem starts when mold grows inside the home.

Some mold growing, for example on the window sill but not elsewhere, is not a cause of concern. You can clean the mold yourself. The presence of mold is a sign that there is too much moisture in your home — a situation which must be corrected.

Inspect the home to find the extent of the mold.

How can you tell if it is mold?
Discoloration

Discoloration is a sign of mold. However, all discoloration is not due to mold. Carpeting near baseboards, for example, can be stained by outdoor pollution entering the home. Stains or soot may also be caused by the smoke from burning candles or cigarettes.

Mold may be any colour: black, white, red, orange, yellow, blue or violet. Dab a drop of household bleach onto a suspected spot. If the stain loses its colour or disappears, it may be mold. If there is no change, it probably isn't mold.

Smell/Odour

Sometimes molds are hidden and cannot be seen. A musty or earthy smell often indicates the presence of molds. But a smell may not be present for all molds. Even when you don't notice a smell, wet spots, dampness or evidence of a water leak are indications of moisture problems and mold may follow.


How much mold is growing?
One way to know is to estimate the area of the mold.

Mold is considered to cover a “small area” if the patch is no larger than a square meter. There should be no more than three patches, each patch smaller than a square meter. Clean up small areas yourself using a detergent solution, household rubber gloves and a dust mask for protection. Refer to How to clean-up small problems for the procedure.

Small moldy areas in homes may become larger over time, if ignored, so it’s important to clean up and remove even small patches of mold.

The mold area is considered “moderate” if there are more than three patches, each patch smaller than a square meter, or there is one or more isolated patches larger than a square meter but smaller than 3 square metres (size of a 4 x 8 foot sheet of plywood). Assessment by a professional is recommended. You can clean up moderate amounts of mold but you must follow the proper procedures and use the proper protective equipment. Refer to Moderate area clean-up for the procedure.

A mold area is considered “extensive” if a single patch of mold is larger in area than a sheet of plywood. Being exposed to this much mold is not a good idea. Do not attempt to clean up large areas of mold yourself. You need professional help to determine why the mold is there in the first place and how to clean it up.

When should you seek professional help?
You may need professional help when:

•There is a lot of mold
•The home is very damp and moist
•Mold comes back after repeated cleaning
•A family member suffers from asthma or respiratory problems or other health problems that appear to be aggravated inside the home
How do you get professional help?
Contact your local CMHC office for a list of individuals who have completed the CMHC Residential Indoor Air Quality Investigator program. A trained IAQ investigator, who operates a private business and sells his/her services, examines the indoor air quality of your home and documents your concerns. He/she identifies the problems, finds their sources and suggests solutions in a written report. Recommendations are provided to you in an action plan that consists of various options to improve the indoor air quality in your home.

How to clean up mold problems
•“Small areas” of mold can be cleaned with a detergent solution.
•Wear a mask, safety goggles and rubber gloves.
•Seek professional help if there is a lot of mold or if mold comes back after cleaning.
Bleach is NOT recommended
The presence of organic (humic) materials, the pH (acidity/alkalinity) of the water, the surface material and contact time affect the effectiveness of bleach for disinfection. Since these factors are not generally controlled, bleach cannot be relied upon for disinfection. The most compelling reason for advising against bleach is that fumes are harmful but in addition, overuse of bleach will result in increased releases of chlorinated effluents which can be harmful to the environment.

“Small area” clean-up
You can clean up “small areas” of mold (fewer than three patches, each smaller than a square meter) yourself. The minimum protective wear needed are:

•safety glasses or goggles;
•a disposable dust mask (3M 8210 or equivalent); and
•household rubber gloves.
Infants and other family members with asthma, allergies or other health problems should not be in the work area or adjacent room during the cleaning.

Washable surfaces:
Scrub with an unscented detergent solution; then sponge with a clean, wet rag and dry quickly.

Using an unscented detergent will make it easier for you to detect residual moldy odours.

Moldy drywall:
Clean the surface with a damp rag using baking soda or a bit of detergent. Do not allow the drywall to get too wet.

Mold that comes back after cleaning is usually an indication that a source of moisture has not been removed. Seek professional help from a trained IAQ investigator.

"Moderate area" clean-up
•Clean “moderate areas” of mold, but wear proper protective equipment and follow precautions.
•Seek professional help if there is a lot of mold or if mold comes back after cleaning.
If you follow the proper procedures and use the proper protective equipment, you can clean up “moderate areas” of mold. “Moderate” means more than 3 patches of mold, each smaller than one square meter, or one or more isolated patches larger than one square meter but smaller than 3 square meters (size of a 4 x 8 foot sheet of plywood).

Safety precautions
•Wear a disposable dust mask (for example, 3M 8210 or equivalent), glasses or safety goggles and household rubber gloves.
•Isolate the area to be cleaned with plastic sheeting, taped to walls and ceiling.
•Infants and other family members suffering from asthma, allergies or other health problems should not be in the work area or adjacent room during the cleaning.
A small clean up should take minutes (not hours) to finish. When the clean up takes hours to a day to finish, it is suggested that you upgrade to a better filter, such as a half-face respirator with charcoal cartridges. An exhaust fan installed in a window in the room being cleaned would prevent contamination of other areas of the house as well as provide ventilation.

General cleaning
Vacuum surfaces with a vacuum cleaner which has a High Efficiency Particulate Air (HEPA) filter or is externally exhausted. Scrub or brush the moldy area with a mild unscented detergent solution. Rinse by sponging with a clean, wet rag. Repeat. Dry quickly. HEPA vacuum the surfaces that were cleaned as well as surrounding areas.

Cleaning wood surfaces
Vacuum loose mold from wood surfaces using a HEPA or externally exhausted vacuum. Try cleaning the surface of the wood with detergent and water. Rinse with a clean, damp rag and dry quickly. If the staining does not come off, sand and vacuum the surface of the wood with a vacuum/sander combination. It is important to vacuum at the same time to prevent mold spores from being dispersed into the air. Note that wood affected by rot may need to be replaced.

Cleaning concrete surfaces
Vacuum the concrete surfaces to be cleaned with a HEPA or externally exhausted vacuum cleaner. Clean up surfaces with detergent and water. If the surfaces are still visibly moldy, use TSP (trisodium phosphate). Dissolve one cup of TSP in two gallons of warm water. Stir for two minutes. Note: TSP must not be allowed to come in contact with skin or eyes. Saturate the moldy concrete surface with the TSP solution using a sponge or rag. Keep the surface wetted for at least 15 minutes. Rinse the concrete surface twice with clean water. Dry thoroughly, as quickly as possible.

Moldy drywall
The paper facings of gypsum wallboard (drywall) grow mold when they get wet or repeatedly wet and don’t dry quickly. Cleaning with water containing detergent not only add moisture to the paper but also can eventually damage the facing. If the mold is located only on top of the painted surface, remove it by general cleaning (see above). If the mold is underneath the paint, the moldy patch and other moldy material behind it are best cut out and the surrounding areas also cleaned. This should be done by a mold clean-up contractor. New materials may become moldy if the moisture entry has not been stopped. If this is the case, replacement of the materials should be deferred until the source of the moisture is corrected. The affected areas should be temporarily covered with plastic sheeting and sealed at the edges.

Any areas that show new patches of mold should be cleaned promptly.

Dealing with an ongoing problem
Repair to the building envelope is required if moisture is entering the home from the outside. At the same time, steps should be taken inside the home to reduce the occupants’ exposure to mold.

Step 1 — Discard moldy or damaged materials
Wear a dust mask and gloves. Furnishings, such as mattresses, carpets, or sofas that got wet or have been stored in damp conditions should be discarded. Discard items that are no longer needed. Use this opportunity to reduce the amount of furnishings — this means fewer materials to absorb moisture and grow mold. Clothes and other items that have been cleaned should be stored in sealed plastic bags to prevent re-contamination.

Step 2 — Vacuum
Proper vacuuming reduces the amount of mold spores. All surfaces in the home (floors, walls, ceilings, shelves) and non-washable furnishings (such as sofas, chairs, etc.) must be vacuumed thoroughly.

Step 3 — Prevent
Keep moisture generated within the home to a minimum by conscientiously following the prevention steps presented in the next section.

Step 4 — Clear wet areas
Pull carpets and furnishings away from walls that get wet. Carpets and underpads that are moldy should be cut out and discarded.

Step 5 — Dry
Take steps to dry up areas that get wet. Monitor the relative humidity of the air. Use a portable dehumidifier, if necessary. Ensure that the condensate drain pan of the dehumidifier is emptied regularly.

Step 6 — Isolate
If the mold is limited to one area, isolate the area if possible. Cover the affected surfaces with plastic sheeting secured at the edges with duct tape. Note that this is only a temporary measure to minimize your exposure.

Step 7 — Clean
Healthy individuals can regularly clean “small” and “moderate” areas of mold, thus preventing these from getting out of hand, by following the safety precautions and cleaning guidelines.

Step 8 — Seek professional help
Consider seeking professional help from trained IAQ investigators to identify appropriate remediation steps inside the home. Removing large amounts of mold will require the services of mold clean-up contractors.

Preventing mold
•Keep the home dry.
•Find and fix water leaks.
•Discard clutter and excess stored materials.
•Clean and maintain the home regularly.
•Encourage lifestyle practices that reduce moisture.
Basic steps to prevent and reduce mold growth
Mold needs moisture to grow. Controlling the moisture and keeping the home dry prevents the growth of mold.

•Check your home for signs of moisture and molds.
•Find out if water is coming in from the outside and if substantial moisture is produced inside the home.
•Fix any water leaks promptly.
•Think of the different ways moisture is produced inside the home (for example, cooking, bathing, plant jungle). Remove the moisture as it is produced by using exhaust fans. In the absence of fans, open windows for a short time, but note that the wind can push the moisture to other parts of the home.
•Measure how much moisture is in the air. To find the relative humidity in your home, you’ll need a hygrometer. You can buy one at a hardware store or electronics store. A hygrometer costs from $10 to $60. Relative humidity in the home should be under 45 per cent in the winter (or lower to avoid condensation on windows). If necessary, use a dehumidifier to lower the relative humidity.
•Reduce the amount of stored materials, especially items that are no longer used. Molds grow on fabrics, paper, wood and practically anything that collects dust and holds moisture.
Mold-proofing your home, room by room
Basement or crawl space

•Reduce the amount of clothes, paper and furnishings stored in the basement. Discard badly damaged materials. Eliminate clutter to improve air circulation. Only washable items should be stored.
•Dehumidify the basement during the warm months.
•Avoid carpets on slab-on-grade or below grade floors.
•Periodically clean the drain in your basement floor. Use half a cup of bleach, let it stand for a few minutes, then flush with plenty of water. Keep the drain trap filled with water.
•Avoid standing water. Keep sump pits covered (you can use plywood wrapped with plastic).
•Regularly clean and replace furnace filters. Use a pleated one-inch filter, not a coarse filter.
•If you have a heat recovery ventilator (HRV), clean the filter inside the HRV often.
•If you notice molds or signs of dampness, such as water on your windows or wet spots elsewhere, do not humidify. Disconnect furnace humidifiers that are no longer used.
•If you have electric baseboards, vacuum the units, or have a professional clean them for you.
Laundry areas
•Check that your clothes dryer exhausts to the outside.
•Remove lint every time you use the dryer.
•Don’t hang-dry laundry indoors.
•Dry your laundry tub and washing machine after you use them.
Bathrooms
•Check the bathroom fan to make sure it exhausts to the outside.
•Turn the bathroom fan on when you shower. Keep it running for a few minutes after you finish your shower.
•Take short showers.
•Keep surfaces that get wet, such as the walls around the bathtub and shower, clean and dry.
•If there is a carpet in your bathroom, remove it.
•Check for water leaks.
•Keep drains in good shape by removing debris from them.
To clean a drain:

•Pour a handful of baking soda into it.
•Add a cup of vinegar.
•Put the plug in the drain.
•Let the vinegar and baking soda work for about 20 minutes.
•Run fresh water into the drain.
If the drain is still clogged, use a small plumbing snake.

Kitchen
•If the fan over your stove exhausts outside, use it when you cook.
•Minimize open boiling.
•Keep your drains in good shape. Follow the steps in the Bathrooms section above.
•There’s a drip pan at the back of the refrigerator. Pull the refrigerator out to clean the drip pan. At the same time, vacuum dust from the coils at the back of the refrigerator.
•Check under the kitchen sink to make sure there are no leaks.
•Take out the garbage daily to prevent odours and spoiling.
Closets and bedrooms
•Get rid of clothes and other stored items that you don’t use. Keeping your closets and bedrooms tidy makes it easier for air to circulate — and harder for mold to grow.
Other parts of the home
•A dehumidifier helps to reduce moisture in the home during the warmer months. Close the windows when the dehumidifier is running.
•When family and friends come into the home, have them take off their shoes.
•Vacuum often. If you are buying a vacuum cleaner, try to get one with a HEPA filter. (See below).
•Clean hard floors with a damp mop.
•Do not bring in furniture, clothing, books etc. that have been stored in a moldy place into your home.
•Cut down the number of potted plants in the house—soil is a good place for mold.
Exterior
•Regularly check the condition of the roof and exterior finish for any places where water might enter.
•Make sure that eavestroughs and downspouts are connected and working properly and that they are free of debris.
•Install downspout extensions to lead water away from the building.
•Deal promptly with any problems that you find.
Frequently asked questions about mold
Should I have my house air tested for mold?
This is the question most frequently asked by homeowners who think their home may have a mold problem. Testing is generally not recommended for homeowners. Testing of moldy materials or an air sample identifies the types of molds that may be present but does not identify the cause/source of moisture. The type of mold does not change the procedures for cleaning up areas of mold less than 3 square meters. You have to clean up the mold and correct the problem irrespective of the type of mold. The cost of testing may be better spent hiring a professional investigator or fixing the problem.

Testing of a moldy material involves sending a swab, an imprint on a Scotch tape or a piece of the material to a competent laboratory. Air sampling requires specialized equipment. An air sample typically captures mold spores in a period of minutes. Since replicate samples must be taken due to variations in the airborne molds over time (even hours) and compared with outdoor samples, air testing is both expensive and time-consuming. Interpretation of test results may not be very useful, since there are no advocated "safe levels" of indoor molds and the results will not tell the health risks from the molds.

The air feels dry — can I humidify?
Before you add moisture to the air, measure the relative humidity. Air that feels dry may not be really dry. It may be moldy. High relative humidity (over 45 per cent) promotes the growth of molds and dust mites. The moisture in the air may condense on colder exterior walls where molds start to grow.

If your physician has advised you to use a humidifier in your child’s bedroom at night, monitor the relative humidity. Turn the humidifier on and off as necessary. In the morning, take steps to make sure the room gets dry. Clean and empty the humidifier after each use.

What advantages do HEPA vacuums provide?
Ordinary vacuums capture large particles only — small mold spores pass through the vacuum into the air. HEPA vacuums have special filters that capture small particles. A central vacuum cleaner which is exhausted to the outside also removes mold spores. A regular portable vacuum is useful only if its exhaust goes outside the home. Vacuuming removes settled dust that contains an accumulation of mold spores over time. Reducing the settled dust reduces molds.

Vacuuming with any vacuum cleaner (ordinary, central or HEPA) stirs dust and mold during the process. Wear a dust mask so you will not be breathing more mold.

Is vacuuming with a HEPA or externally exhausted vacuum cleaner recommended for serious mold problems only?
Vacuum regularly with a HEPA or externally exhausted vacuum cleaner to prevent the ongoing accumulation of dust and molds. The need for HEPA or external exhaust vacuuming increases with the severity of the mold problem.

If a furnishing has been wet at some time in the past or has been exposed to dampness over a prolonged period of time, vacuuming with HEPA or externally exhausted vacuum is unlikely to remove the mold growing beneath the surface. It is better to discard the item.

Where do you find a HEPA vacuum cleaner?
Vacuum cleaner dealers carry HEPA vacuums. Consider purchasing one as an upgrade to what you may be using. A HEPA vacuum is a good investment in the long term whether you have mold or not. A generic canister HEPA vacuum cleaner costs approximately $300. Brand name products of the same type may cost more. You may inquire if the dealer has a HEPA vacuum cleaner to rent. Contractors who clean up or renovate houses for mold should also have this equipment.

Does painting over a moldy surface take care of the mold?
Painting over mold only masks the problem. Paint does not kill the mold nor stop it from growing. Surfaces that are washable should be cleaned with a detergent solution, following the procedure suggested above, then allowed to dry. If you are going to paint, remove mold first.

Does cleaning stop the mold growth?
Mold will reappear until its source of moisture is removed. High moisture levels that are not corrected can make the molds grow back quickly. Cleaning is only a temporary but essential measure.

You can help by making a conscious effort to keep the home dry. Obviously, water must be prevented from entering the home. But you can help by controlling moisture that you produce.

How does one clean clothes that are moldy?
Non-washable clothing can be dry cleaned.

Wash clothes with a detergent solution to which a cup of bleach is added. Make sure the detergent you use does not contain ammonia. Repeat as necessary until the moldy odour is gone.

Clothes and other items that have been cleaned should be stored in sealed plastic bags to prevent re-contamination.

For more information
Health Canada (April 2008)
http://www.hc-sc.gc.ca/index_e.html
Enter "mold" or "mould" in the search box.

Article Written By CMHC

Article Provided By Aquaseal Basement Waterproofing Contractors Ontario

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